论文标题

近极端stokes波的不稳定性

The instability of near-extreme Stokes waves

论文作者

Deconinck, Bernard, Dyachenko, Sergey A., Lushnikov, Pavel M., Semenova, Anastassiya

论文摘要

我们研究了在无限深度理想流体的自由表面上stokes波的稳定性。对于小陡度,调节型不稳定性主导着动力学,但是由于波峰处的干扰,由于较陡的波的增长速率大大超过了陡峭的波动,这解释了为什么长时间传播海洋膨胀由小振幅波组成。主要的局部干扰要么与Stokes Wave共同存在,要么是其周期的两倍。陡波进化的非线性阶段揭示了跌落断裂物的形成。

We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an instability due to disturbances localized at the wave crest, explaining why long propagating ocean swell consists of small-amplitude waves. The dominant localized disturbances are either co-periodic with the Stokes wave, or have twice its period. The nonlinear stage of instability for steep wave evolution reveals the formation of a plunging breaker.

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